Posts Tagged Philippines

For God and Country: Notes on Filipino Nationalism

11 December 2011

Despite my apparent popularity as I walk any street on the isle of Cebu– “hello!” “good morning!” “how are you!”– the white man a has a checkered history in this part of the world. Magellan was the first to arrive in 1521; he was promptly beheaded by Chief Lapu-Lapu, and his crew excused themselves in short order. The next Spaniards arrived some decades later, and had what must have been the surprise of their lives when the native Cebuanos whipped out a figurine of the Santo Niño that Magellan’s crew had left behind in their haste.

Taking it as a sign, apparently, the Spaniards set about their missionary business with diligence, and had a terrific run over the subsequent 300-odd years until William McKinley took the restive Philippines off their hands. Washington was planning to liberate the country until a bevy of Republican Senators intervened and, well, actually maybe we’d better hang on to those islands after all. Following further decades of colonial oppression and attendant rebellion, MacArthur fled before the Japanese, who got their wartime use out of the Philippines most notably as a death-march locale and a favored source for “comfort women.” Then the Americans came back and finally made good on their promise: Filipinos walked free in 1946.

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Hanging out the second story window of a professional development center in Cebu City a banner congratulates “our students who will be leaving to work in the UK and Canada!” It’s a commonly felt sentiment here. “Honestly, there’s nobody in this country who doesn’t look at that and feel some envy,” said my friend Steve (a Filipino). In the Philippines, it seems, there is no higher mark of achievement than to leave the Philippines. The government actively promotes it, urging people to move abroad if they can, and don’t forget to write– overseas Filipinos send home billions of dollars annually, making up a full 10% of the national GDP. Even the Pope has chimed in, discouraging birth control in the Philippines because human bodies are the country’s biggest export. (This in an increasingly overpopulated country: one of the only net rice importers in Asia.) (more…)

New Town, New Faces

27 June 2011

I left the Philippines on Friday five kilos heavier (pork, mostly), one cell phone lighter (sticky-fingered cab driver, probably), and so much the better for a quorum of new friends in Cebu, many of them my colleagues in the fight against dengue fever.

I’m in Bangkok this week, and let me tell you, this city is enormous and the food here is really delicious. Yesterday was the “pre-election day” — one week out from the July 3 poll, those citizens with good cause can cast their vote early.  Over two million people showed up, suggesting very heavy turnout to come on Sunday. Interestingly (at least, interesting to those deleteriously affected, such as myself), the sale of all alcoholic beverages is forbidden on pre-election day, presumably to prevent erroneous ballot-casting. The finer hotels in town to go great lengths to ensure that minibars remain fully stocked; I stuck to some orange drink for the day. (It’s just as well… on a hot evening, a malty Chang Beer can’t compete with a crisp and refreshing San Miguel Pale Pilsen– the choice of the Philippines.)

Here are a few of the characters I met during my first weekend in Bangkok:

Grilled Meat Market

23 June 2011

The Jeepney

16 June 2011

This is how we Filipinos get around town. (Click to make it big.)

Hey, How’s the Philippines?

15 June 2011

Good question. Rather than go Toqueville and write you a framework to understand a country that I’ve been in for two weeks, all I’ve got are snippets, observations and postcards:

The People
Filipinos really are just the nicest, most good-natured people on earth. Unfailingly friendly, agonizingly polite, and ever-ready to smile, the people I’ve encountered in Cebu seem to take endless delight in sharing a laugh with friends. And rather than the “Chinese laugh,” which is more often than not a facade over some kind of awkwardness or discomfort, the Cebuano laugh is a genuine laugh at the hilarity of the world and the joy of sharing it.

The Food
The food here is very, very heavy. The extent of the cuisine can be divided among four food groups: seafood (baked scallops, fried squid, noodles in shrimp paste, barbecued fish with head attached), chicken (fried, barbecued, feet), rice (white, sticky), and pork. Pork in all its glorious forms: fried pork belly, grilled ribs slathered in sauce, sizzling diced pig “mask” served under a fried egg, entrails and other bits stuck on a stick and barbecued over an open coal fire by the side of the road.

And there is lechon– the national dish if there is one. A few nights ago I had dinner at a place that was having it’s “dry run” dinner service before their actual opening on Thursday. They have a very happy prancing pig as their logo, and a charred brown pig with its body carved to pieces on the counter. This is lechon: a slow-roasted whole pig, chopped into bits and chunks and served glistening in its own fat. The real delicacy is the skin, brown and crispy, more decadent than bacon.  I ate half a kilo.

The Language
Tagalog is the language of Manila, but nobody speaks it in Cebu. Cebuano, rather, is the language of the Central Visayas. Spoken, the language is sprinkled with English and words that sound an awful lot like Spanish. Many people also speak (and to a greater extent, understand) English. Sometimes I hear kids talking to their parents or each other in flawless English.  For the most part, people here speak a peculiar kind of English that is heavily accented but highly colloquial. Thanks is probably due to the American entertainment industry, which pervades.

The Pervs
One of the more uncomfortable (repugnant might be the better word) parts of living here is belonging to an ethno-racial group dominated by fat, bald, weather-beaten, red-faced old men who’ve come to the ‘pines to find a wife (that being the charitable interpretation).  I feel like a creep by association. I see them walking around with girls 40 years their junior and I try to give them the benefit of the doubt– perhaps they’re born pedophiles, who, rather than succumb to their vile nature, come here for a girlfriend who’s 19 and looks 14. And while I’ve been solicited by prostitutes all over the world, the favored product of the local street hawkers is new to me: small boxes of Cialis & Viagra.

The Public Transit

The Gays
I can’t really speak to the rest of the country on this, but Cebu has to be one of the most gay-friendly cities on earth. At the clinic where I work, many of the male staff are gay and out, and around the city, gay bars abound while meeting a transexual is as ordinary as noodles for breakfast. In the words of one colleague, “It’s really just not a very big deal here.”  All this is especially remarkable given that this is a devoutly Catholic country.  Abortion, for example, is illegal (though currently under debate in Manila). But the gays can do their thing. Update: It’s worth noting, I think, that despite the country’s remarkable tolerance toward homosexuality, there is no gay marriage, and it’s not very likely to happen anytime soon.  Also, as another illustration of the traditional Catholic nature of this country, the Philippines is one of the few countries where divorce is still illegal (though this, too, is under public debate).

The Gambling
Filipinos love to gamble. Slot machines, bingo, lottery tickets, cockfighting– you name it. And if you’re watching a sporting event, the first question from a stranger is not “who are you for” but “who did you put your money on?” My colleague Dave came dancing into the office last week, celebrating the thousand pesos he’d won picking the Mavs over the Heat in game 3 of the NBA Finals.

Let me know what else you’re wondering about, and I’ll tell you all about it. Also forthcoming: pictures of the various meats described above.